Entries Tagged 'lathes' ↓

The PC world is buzzing lately about how laptop manufacturers are struggling to compete with Apple’s MacBook Air, which has exploded in popularity since the introduction of the third-gen model in 2010. this year’s fourth-gen update is proving to be the must-have laptop of the year. For every laptop manufacturer not named “Apple”, the race is on to make new super-thin and super-light laptops. Intel calls them Ultrabooks, and the name is catching on, despite being sort of silly.Here’s a question for you: why didn’t HP, Dell, Acer, Samsung, or some other huge PC manufacturer build the Air before Apple? the answer is: they did. Sony’s X505 was a razor-thin laptop weighing less than 2 pounds, and it came out in 2003! more recently, Dell introduced the Adamo in 2009, and later that year the even thinner Adamo XPS. these laptops didn’t sell. Sony’s cost over three grand. Dell’s were also too expensive, and the battery life was pitiful. Instead of fixing those problems, Dell killed the Adamo line. Sony and Dell built nearly-great products with critical flaws and instead of challenging their engineers and designers to find ways to address those flaws, they concluded that nobody really wanted these systems. Apple didn’t give up, though. Drive too thick and too slow? Apple commissioned a special case-less SSD that could fit in its slim design. it worked to make the motherboard smaller, the components cheaper, and crammed as much lithium polymer battery as it could fit in the case. by 2010, the Air had evolved from an overpriced, underpowered status toy to the must-have computer of our day.my point here is not simply that PC manufacturers are quitters. It’s that they have the entirely wrong mindset to build must-have products. several times a year, I have meetings with major PC manufacturers about their upcoming product lines, and the tenor is always the same: “Our customers told us this is what they want, and our market research says this is what people are buying, so we made this great product to address that market!” There’s nothing inherently wrong with that, but you’ll never set any trends that way. if you want to make the product that everyone else compares their product to, you have to go outside the envelope. You have to take a risk to build something nobody has told you they want, because they don’t know they want it yet, and then you have to invest in it and stick with it until you get it right. the real irony here is that their marketing departments are constantly striving to find differentiators: ways to set their products apart from the pack. if every company is building products to address the same set of market research data, you’re not going to get differentiated products.Building a better Air – or even just a cheaper one – is proving to be difficult. those unibody aluminum chassis on MacBooks make them really rigid despite the thin design, and Apple has booked solid all the lathes capable of carving a laptop body out of a single block of metal. Challengers like the Samsung Series 9 have metal bodies, but without the satisfying stiff feel and seamless edges of one carved from a single chuck of alloy. of course, the Series 9 is also quite expensive. When one of the main reasons people don’t buy a Mac these days is because they can’t buy one for less than $1,000, pricing your Mac alternative well above that price doesn’t do you any favors.there are other pretenders to the ultrabook throne coming this fall. There’s the Asus UX51, and the Acer Aspire 3951. Rumor has it HP will unveil an ultrabook soon. what do all these systems have in common? They’re too late. yes, the ultra-thin form factor made popular by the Air is rising in popularity, and if priced right some of these systems will sell pretty well. Sales numbers notwithstanding, they’ll suffer the ignominious fate of being labeled also-rans. They’ll be “MacBook Air-like.” the problem with PC manufacturers is not that they can’t build a computer as good as the hottest Apple thing, it’s that they’re constantly trying to. Apple is in the driver’s seat.if you aim at a fast-moving target, you’re sure to hit behind it. While HP, Acer, Asus, and others are worrying about how to make a MacBook Air killer, Apple is busy redefining the rest of its laptop line. Intel is kicking in $300M to drive the ultrabook category with new inventions and new, cheaper SSDs will help drive costs down. by the time all the PC manufacturers figure out how to make a cheaper laptop that is as thin, light, and long-lived as a MacBook Air, everyone will be drooling over the new MacBook Apple will have just introduced. I suppose we can’t expect a lot of creativity and focus from companies that think a random string of letters and numbers make for appropriate product names.Here’s a bit of free advice for the PC manufacturers: lose the optical drive. No, not just in your upcoming ultrabooks, in everything. I’ve asked four PC makers this year why they’re still putting DVD drives in their 13-to-15 inch laptops while struggling to make them thinner and lighter. they all said the same thing: “our customers say they aren’t ready for that yet.” well of course they’re not! if you wait until the world tells you an optical drive isn’t worth the tradeoff in thickness, weight, and space for a bigger battery, you’ll be marketing laptops just like everyone else’s. I’d make a million dollar bet Apple’s next generation of MacBook Pro won’t have optical drives in its 13 and 15 inch models, and they’ll be so slim and sleek and light everyone will want one. Then Dell, HP, Acer, Asus, Samsung, Sony, and the others will follow suit six months later, looking like they can’t come up with an idea until after Apple does.Here’s another free idea: make netbooks half as thick as they are today. Intel has advanced the Atom platform over the years, AMD has that tiny Fusion E-series chip, there’s no optical drive, and the rest of the internals are minimal at best. Yet netbooks still basically look like they did four years ago when the genre was new. There’s no good reason a system that small, that cheap, with that little horsepower, should be more than two-thirds of an inch thick.Consider the story of Hewlett-Packard’s invention of the first pocket calculator, the HP 35, back in 1972. HP’s market research said they shouldn’t make and release it – it was going to cost at least $350. at twenty times the cost of a slide rule, nobody was going to buy it! Bill Hewlett said, “I don’t care, I want one of these things” and pushed the project through. it was so revolutionary, so visionary and transformative, that even at a cost of $350+ (that’s 1972 dollars!) the orders were over 10,000 a month. HP didn’t project sales of 10,000 a year. I don’t know if HP or other laptop manufacturers still feel as though they operate with this sort of audacious drive to build gotta-have-it products, and “damn the torpedoes,” but it’s certainly not evident in the products we see on the market today.

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I have the SkillsUSA competition coming up in a couple weeks and i specifically need to know about the G76 threading multiple pass cycle. I get most of it, but how do I go about finding the K value? It's the depth of thread and i have looked up in many places how to find this. the two formulas that show up most are .6495/TPI and .6134/TPI. however when i look in the HAAS lathe handbook (which does not tell you how to get this value by the way) and in the sample program i do not think they are using either of these formulas. can anybody help me?

To find your thread height, you subtract your minor diameter from the major diameter of the thread and divide by 2. this will give you the thread height in thousandths of an inch. The K value however is defined in ten-thousandths of an inch without a decimal. so for a 5/8-11 2A thread, it goes as follows.

Max Dia.-.625"
Min Dia.-.512"

(.625-.512)/2=.0565"

Therefore your K value would be written in your cycle as "K565"

I'm 14 and live in Perth Australia, but just in general is ok. I don't want to make a living from it just as a hobby, but I want to be good enough to work on motorcycles in precision, my neighbour has given me some help on those kind of things but he doesn't have welding equipment, only a handful of 30 year old+ tools, so I can't learn much. I know there are different types like TIG, Arc, and Oxy-acetylene (can you explain the differences please), and also for different materials like aluminium, so what's the most common types, the easiest to learn to start with, and the most relevant to what I want to do? are classes common, or is it hard to find somewhere that teaches it, and is it expensive, do you have to pay a lot for the use of equipment, gas, metal etc?

I also want to learn to use a lathe, and any other tools that might be useful. I've done woodwork for a couple of terms at school so I can use bandsaw, belt/orbital sanders, drillpress/handdrill, heating element for acrylics, and all the hand tools, but I don't know anything about metalworking, the closest thing is that I can solder cleanly.

start with the mig stick welding is on its way out ive been welding for 23 years

I am a home hobbyist, artist, and general do-it-yourself-er. I have a shop in my garage where I do metalworking, welding, woodworking, repair bicycles and work on my motorcycle and car. I want a high quality, relatively inexpensive, heavy duty bench grinder. I expect to use it for sharpening tools, chisels and blades and grinding small metal parts for welding and fabrication. I also want something well balanced with little wobble so I can hone my lathe gouges. I would like the unit to have either a flexible light or a wide lamp. I don;t need a stand, I can build that. my budget is around $50. I appreciate your thoughts.

JB

I have no idea of anything new for $50 or less, in a level you seem to expect in features and quality. Certainly USED is an option.

I have a Craftsman, probably 40 years old by now that still does what it's supposed to, and I have no desire to buy new, but you have options and should exercise all of them, such as actually shopping, or looking in bargain trader flyers, or e bay, pawn shops, garage sales, etc etc etc.

Well, if $50 is all you have to spend–expect to get a cheap bench grinder! So, get yerself off to the flea market, or frequent the garage sales!
years ago, i bought a large heavy bench grinder, at a garage sale, for $35. A heavy bench vise for $10, too. and a large pipe wrench for $1! I even found a bench grinder in somebody's garbage pile! Needed some oil on the shafts–works well!

First of all, at least Craftsman are made in the USA rather than China. second, a grinder as you describe is high-speed and not too good for sharpening blades and chisels. you can easily ruin the steel by either ruining its temper or taking off too much metal. however, if you really want one, just remember that all a bench grinder is is a large motor that spins a grinding wheel. Look for one used and make sure to plug it in and turn it on. make sure it speeds up smoothly, look at the wheels for wobble, listen for any funny noises (it should purr like a kitten), and after you turn it off and let it stop, grab the wheels and jiggle them a bit. Any looseness you can feel is a bad sign, it means the bearings are bad or getting there. Also, check the plug for all THREE prongs. if you are using a large motor to grind metal, it is a really good idea to make sure it is grounded. other than that, get a good diamond stone or a Lanksy set to sharpen your blades and use the grinder for fabrication. good luck!!

I would go with a Sears craftsman grinder. I'm not much of a craftsman fan on the lager tools anymore, but they still make pretty good small tools. I've had one for many years, and the motor still has good pull.

I am looking to buy a steady rest to feed tubes with a diameter ranging from 2" to about 4". the sellers are only specifiying the diameter of the lathe. How do I know it can be adjusted all the way down to 2" if the diameter of the lathe is 10" or 12"?

I have a Smithy CB1220xl. I'm seriously thinking of adding CNC to it with Mach 3 software. Anyone ever add CNC to their 3 in 1 machine? any type of 3 in 1?

i have everything:

drill press
band saw
table saw
welder
lathe
bench grinder
…etc.

i need ideas for money making projects

become a handyman, if you know how to fix things
or you may want to sale the tools

if you can do wood work and weld sounds like you are in business.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/ml260.jpg

There appears to be a reasonable following of the Weiss made in China 10" x 18" lathe or varients thereof. mine being a Craftex B2227L from Busy Bee here in Canada.

Interested in learning the fully story behind any modification large or small carried out over the years. Photos along with a brief description meaning the rational behind a modification is greatly appreciated.

One particular mod that comes to mind is a ‘reverse lead screw tumbler bracket’.

What say you to this..!!

Bill

That Weiss looks like it has a lead screw cover. Oldtiffie did that, and I’d like to as well.

I turned new knobs for the handles because I couldn’t stand the plastic globs it came with.

I also added an Aloris clone toolpost.

Not sure what your suggested mod is.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/ml260.jpg

There appears to be a reasonable following of the Weiss made in China 10" x 18" lathe or varients thereof. mine being a Craftex B2227L from Busy Bee here in Canada.

Interested in learning the fully story behind any modification large or small carried out over the years. Photos along with a brief description meaning the rational behind a modification is greatly appreciated.

One particular mod that comes to mind is a ‘reverse lead screw tumbler bracket’.

What say you to this..!!

Have a look at this website:

andysmachines.weebly.com/introduction.html

Although Andy’s machine is a much smaller Weiss lathe than yours, he has made some good mods that may provide inspiration.I hope this is useful to you.Mike

That Weiss looks like it has a lead screw cover. Oldtiffie did that, and I’d like to as well.

I turned new knobs for the handles because I couldn’t stand the plastic globs it came with.

I also added an Aloris clone toolpost.

Not sure what your suggested mod is.

If Oldtiffie is connected perhap he will share how he made and installed that lead screw cover.

Like Brian Rupnow I added a Phase II AXA 100 QCTP although I did not modify the top slide or any part of the original tool holder. Basically I make a new centre tool post shaft something along the lines found in this article.

phase2plus.com/images/MW_James_Johnson_article.pdf

As for the suggested modification it looks like this.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/1-Change_Gear_Support.jpg

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/4-RT_NeutralPosition.jpg

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/5-RT_Engaged.jpg

Not wanting to weld a new arm to the gear support plate I plan on making a new gear support something like this.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/Support_Plate-2.jpg

Bill

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/ml260.jpg

I believe there is a raft of simple modifications for this particular lathe series from Weiss. Some are specific to a one time project while others become more permanant similar to "Oldtiffie’s" lead screw cover.

Was hoping this thread might cluster a number of them together or a least offer said users a platform for further discussion.

Bill

Thanks WilliamG for posting this topic which should be of interest to a number of people here with similar lathes.I don,t have this lathe, but always find these topics of comparisons interesting reading.this must be a popular model lathe, as a number in my area are using them.

WilliamG,I own a larger version of this Weiss lathe (WM 280 V with power crossfeed and a seperate feed shaft) and it has a tumbler reverse built into the semi Norton gear box. I’d agree 100% about the desirability of a tumbler reverse. I’ll still be watching this thread with interest tho. if your lathe doesn’t have it, a tee slotted add on table for the cross slide would be a great addition for line boring. a tailstock ratcheting handle for tailstock locking to the lathe bed is really worthwhile. same idea for a carrige lock when facing would be very handy. Cross and top slide locks too. Looking for wrenches to lock all this stuff down is a major PITAIMO.

Pete

looks just like my busy bee b2227L with a few mods added in ..nice lathe id buy one, there built great and solid and get the jobe dont right everytime ,

oh waite i have one already what the hell whats a second one would need to buy it just so i can take mine off line and repaint it ,

looks sweet nice find

Thanks WilliamG for posting this topic which should be of interest to a number of people here with similar lathes.I don,t have this lathe, but always find these topics of comparisons interesting reading.this must be a popular model lathe, as a number in my area are using them.

Forgot to mention this earlier on "adding a reverse tumbler". when engaged it simply changes the direction of the lead screw whereby you can cut left-hand threads. I understand any gear supplied with the lathe will work and shouldn’t change the thread pitch. Now one might not make use of it that often although it would be nice addition.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/Dsc00346.jpg

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/Dsc00343.jpg

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/Dsc00348.jpg

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/Support_Plate-2.jpg

Bill

WilliamG,a properly designed tumbler reverse also has a idle position allowing you to disconnect the driven gears from the leadscrew. You’d need to use something like spring loaded balls to keep the tumbler reverse locked in the correct detent position. That’s worthwhile too in my opinion.

Pete

WilliamG,a properly designed tumbler reverse also has a idle position allowing you to disconnect the driven gears from the leadscrew. You’d need to use something like spring loaded balls to keep the tumbler reverse locked in the correct detent position. That’s worthwhile too in my opinion.

Nothing fancy, strictly a manual adjustment of the bracket and gears.

This photo shows the new extention arm without the gear.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/1-Change_Gear_Support.jpg

This photo shows the reverse gear sitting idle.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/4-RT_NeutralPosition.jpg

This photo shows the gear engaged.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/5-RT_Engaged.jpg

Someone out there might have a better arrangement along with photos.

Bill

OK, but you really need a way to positively lock the tumbler reverse so it can’t be moved by accident. going from R/H threading to L/H in the middle of a job would ruin your day. (EDIT) your pictures show it being able to be locked in place with a bolt. Please ignore the above.

Pete

OK, but you really need a way to positively lock the tumbler reverse so it can’t be moved by accident. going from R/H threading to L/H in the middle of a job would ruin your day. (EDIT) your pictures show it being able to be locked in place with a bolt. Please ignore the above.

Yes you’re correct on that and this photo offers a better view.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/Dsc00348.jpg

Lathe photos with silver paint are not mine and I can’t remember where I got them. Besides this I have not made the new bracket although I have a friend with a plasma cutter and the first time he gets to cut half inch plate he will cut one out.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/Support_Plate-3.jpg

Bill

I will respond to this is in some detail later.

WilliamG,I own a larger version of this Weiss lathe (WM 280 V with power crossfeed and a seperate feed shaft) and it has a tumbler reverse built into the semi Norton gear box. I’d agree 100% about the desirability of a tumbler reverse. I’ll still be watching this thread with interest tho. if your lathe doesn’t have it, a tee slotted add on table for the cross slide would be a great addition for line boring. a tailstock ratcheting handle for tailstock locking to the lathe bed is really worthwhile. same idea for a carrige lock when facing would be very handy. Cross and top slide locks too. Looking for wrenches to lock all this stuff down is a major PITAIMO.

Like the idea of a ‘tailstock ratcheting handle’ having toyed with that in my mind at least what little is left of it. there is a ‘carriage lock’ of sorts although it could be improved on. Unsure of a ‘T slot’ add on table for the cross slide as to‘line boring’ could you expand on this please?

Bill

I have a lathe similar to the OP and as sold by BusyBee Canada except that mine came as a "3-in-1" – ie it had a very good milling head as well as a tee-slotted table that bolts to the top of the cross-slide (that’s why the cross-slides and their dove-tails are so good and wide. mine also came with the lead-screw cover/shield (details later). I removed my milling head for a taper-turning attachment I have (still not done!!). The milling head went to scrap.

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe1.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/AirSmith09.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/AirSmith06.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/AirSmith04.jpg

Here are the details the lead-screw cover (very helpful) as it keeps just about all swarf and gunk from my lead-screw and apron:

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe_7.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe_4.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe_6.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe_8.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe_9.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe_1.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe_2.jpg

i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/oldtiffie/Lathe_misc/Lathe_3.jpg

I think the best I’ve seen from a member here (Canada) who was an excellent creative and lateral thinker who made a tumbler set-up that needed to be pushed or pulled instead of rocked. it worked very well.

The member got the tumbler and other projects up and running and just faded away. he was very keen on motor-cycles as I recall.

This would have been abut two years ago.

I rather hope that some one with a similar lathe had saved the thread and the images.

I thought I had a copy but if I have I can’t find it.

Here is one by Steve Bedair:bedair.org/Tumble/Tumble1.html

I made a angle iron stand for my B2227L, changed these yellow plastic knobs to 1" black plastic balls, and made a new plate for the tail stock lock, with a spring, I love this little trow-away lathe, use it a lot more than my Colchester.

img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/alflipo/Picture418.jpg

img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/alflipo/Picture423.jpg

Bill,Have a look thru MSC industrials online catalog. Page 1290, You should find something that will work real well and even match up with your exsisting threads. You may have to go thru a few pages in that area of the catalog but something in there will work. (LOL, Oh yeah, if you’ve never seen that catalog before don’t get lost in there.)

A tee slotted table allows various items to be fixtured to the table and then parts machined. Oldtiffies pictures show this real well. doing this you then end up using the lathe like a horizontal milling machine. I’ll admit that using a lathe to mill isn’t the best but for light cuts and smaller items it does work. I own a 3/4 size Bridgeport clone mill. even with that, For some areas on long parts it’s easier and more accurate to use the lathe instead of the mill. For example, say you had a rod or square bar that is 3 feet long and wanted to tap drill and tap a hole in the end of it. Properly set up in the lathe with the part set up at the correct height it’s much easier and the part is held far more rigid than it would be even if you could do the job in the mill. That’s just one example, There’s an endless amount more.

Line boring, Depending on what you normally make you may never need it. You use a bar between the lathes centers and this has a cutting tool projecting thru the middle of it that can be adjusted. Your part has a thru drilled hole in it that the boring bar will fit thru. You adjust your part to the correct height for the finished hole centerline, Use the cross slide to move the part to the correct centerline position for that dimension. (Set up in a vertical mill these would be your X and Y travels.) Lock your cross slide, start the lathe at the correct rpm for your cutting tool diameter, Use the lathes power feed and make a cut. Return the lathes carrige and part to your starting position. You then need to remove the boring bar from between the lathes centers to measure your part to see how much more needs to be removed. this is why you run the boring bar between centers as it can be returned quickly to the exact same C/L after every measurment. after measuring your hole, Return the boring bar back between the lathes centers, Adjust the cutting tool projection and make your next pass towards your finished hole dimension. You can use a dial indicator to measure your exact cutting tool adjustment each time. Line boring works very well for items that are fairly long like a steam or gas engine cylinder. It’s very accurate as the boring bar is supported at both ends unlike a boring head. Again this is just one example of line boring and there’s many more. a tee slotted table for your lathes cross slide allows many more options for machining parts, So in my opinion it’s really worth having.

Pete

I made a angle iron stand for my B2227L, changed these yellow plastic knobs to 1" black plastic balls, and made a new plate for the tail stock lock, with a spring, I love this little trow-away lathe, use it a lot more than my Colchester.

Nice stand looks very solid, like the metal shield behind your lathe. Have considered doing just that.

For those who haven’t guessed I am what some on the list refer to as a ‘nOOb’. That in its self sounds like an insult but who really cares at least I don’t. this is a great forum harboring a huge amount of talent and knowledge and I thank those who but up with me for that. thanks guys!

My shop is also my garage which becomes tight quarters during winter months, check it out.

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/DSC_0257.jpg

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/DSC_0260.jpg

i994.photobucket.com/albums/af66/wierd_willy/DSC_0253.jpg

Bill,Have a look thru MSC industrials online catalog. Page 1290, You should find something that will work real well and even match up with your exsisting threads. You may have to go thru a few pages in that area of the catalog but something in there will work. (LOL, Oh yeah, if you’ve never seen that catalog before don’t get lost in there.)

A tee slotted table allows various items to be fixtured to the table and then parts machined. Oldtiffies pictures show this real well. doing this you then end up using the lathe like a horizontal milling machine. I’ll admit that using a lathe to mill isn’t the best but for light cuts and smaller items it does work. I own a 3/4 size Bridgeport clone mill. even with that, For some areas on long parts it’s easier and more accurate to use the lathe instead of the mill. For example, say you had a rod or square bar that is 3 feet long and wanted to tap drill and tap a hole in the end of it. Properly set up in the lathe with the part set up at the correct height it’s much easier and the part is held far more rigid than it would be even if you could do the job in the mill. That’s just one example, There’s an endless amount more.

Line boring, Depending on what you normally make you may never need it. You use a bar between the lathes centers and this has a cutting tool projecting thru the middle of it that can be adjusted. Your part has a thru drilled hole in it that the boring bar will fit thru. You adjust your part to the correct height for the finished hole centerline, Use the cross slide to move the part to the correct centerline position for that dimension. (Set up in a vertical mill these would be your X and Y travels.) Lock your cross slide, start the lathe at the correct rpm for your cutting tool diameter, Use the lathes power feed and make a cut. Return the lathes carrige and part to your starting position. You then need to remove the boring bar from between the lathes centers to measure your part to see how much more needs to be removed. this is why you run the boring bar between centers as it can be returned quickly to the exact same C/L after every measurment. after measuring your hole, Return the boring bar back between the lathes centers, Adjust the cutting tool projection and make your next pass towards your finished hole dimension. You can use a dial indicator to measure your exact cutting tool adjustment each time. Line boring works very well for items that are fairly long like a steam or gas engine cylinder. It’s very accurate as the boring bar is supported at both ends unlike a boring head. Again this is just one example of line boring and there’s many more. a tee slotted table for your lathes cross slide allows many more options for machining parts, So in my opinion it’s really worth having. Pete

Took a quick look at the MSC industrials online catalog, fantastic stuff! I’m in the middle of tooling up my Craftex CT129N mill, presently waiting for Canada Post to deliver a Glacern GSV-440 4" vise from Ontario. Acquired a used 6" HV rotary table with index plates & tail stock and a 5" three jaw chuck. Plus a small machinists vise, a 4" x 5" tilting table, a set of precision parallels. should be ready to rock and roll come spring. Lots of little things I would like to change but shall live with them for the moment.

Keep on adding your ideas to this thread along with the neat photos. almost like its a family.

Bill

Bill,For a self professed "nOOb" that’s a really nice shop. That obviously took a great deal of non nOOb thinking. I like it. No such thing as a nOOb question. if you don’t know, then you don’t know. You have larger and better equipment than I started with. I’ve asked what I thought were stupid questions here and fully expect to ask more in the future.

Pete

Bill,For a self professed "nOOb" that’s a really nice shop. That obviously took a great deal of non nOOb thinking. I like it. No such thing as a nOOb question. if you don’t know, then you don’t know. You have larger and better equipment than I started with. I’ve asked what I thought were stupid questions here and fully expect to ask more in the future.Pete

This old codger was employed in a military jet aircraft environment for forty years and that is where I became keenly aware on the practise of good house keeping and playing it safe. My father was a die setter for Stanley Steel in Hamilton and this is where my interest in shop work started. although my father wasn’t a machinist by trade he clearly knew his way around a machine shop and Stanley had a great one. perhaps I can learn something of what he was so expert at.

At the age of 73 it is basically a hobby to keep my mind working. Please notice I didn’t use the word ‘sharp’!

Appreciate the information posted by "oldtiffie" more specifically the photos and details. Looking at my lathe I can’t seem to figure out how the ‘lead-screw cover’ attaches to the lathe bed. one can see there are several rubber or plastic plugs if the front face of the cover but for why? perhaps to remove the screws holding the ‘Rack Bar’.

That’s what my manual from Busy Bee calls the long gear tooth item on the front face of the lathe.

What say you tiffie?

Bill

I made a angle iron stand for my B2227L, changed these yellow plastic knobs to 1" black plastic balls, and made a new plate for the tail stock lock, with a spring, I love this little trow-away lathe, use it a lot more than my Colchester.

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When I received my B2227L lathe it had a few minor paint chips and being the fussy old fa^t that I am I picked up a 946 ml can of Green TREMCLAD gloss rust paint. Works fine with little noticable difference in color. before I received my CT129N mill I was prepared to do a small modification of sorts by having the motor cover repainted from puke yellow to green, have a look.

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After I hone up on my internal threading skills I plan to replace the yellow plastic handles on the lathe likely made from brass.

Bill

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After further study of oldtiffie’s lead screw cover drawingthe light went on and I’m sure he will correct me if I’m wrong in my thinking.

One would assume the theory on fastening the cover to the lathe is by pressure fit behind the ‘Rack Bar’. after all the cover metal is only 0.02" thick. clearly there is a difference in bed length from his lathe to a B2227L although that shouldn’t pose a huge problem, just a simple matter of basic measurments. all others should be relative with a slight change to the cover access holes found on the front.

Overall cover length for a Busy Bee B2227L lathe is about 660 mm with the Rack Bar being 510 mm in length fasten with five screws and two pins. Guess they really don’t want this item to fall off! LOL

Bill

Having its longer cousin sold by Matt at Quality Machine there are several aspects of this lathe that brought it to my attention. one I could get into the basement by myself. While a 12×36 would of been nice weight wise it was out of the question. The second thing is for a bench lathe the spindle bore is on the big side. With a 5c collet chuck any collet that can pass the stock all the way through can be used. Third is simply because it is pretty bare bones it is extremely modifiable into something closer to what I really wanted. That being a Hardinge HLV. Now it will never be one but I can give it some of its attributes.